I recently had a problem with an item in my Windows Explorer Jumplist that could not be removed. Neither clicking on the blue pin, nor right clicking on the item and choosing “Unpin from this list” did what they were supposed to. Even worse was that it was actually a duplicate item and I didn’t want either of them pinned to my jumplist!

This is a pretty common problem and most of the posts about it on the Internet either say that you can’t fix it, or that you pretty much have to destroy your entire jumplist (and possibly all of your jumplists from every application pinned to the taskbar) in order to remove one frozen item. I discovered a quick workaround that lets you actually remove just the frozen item(s):

1. Right Click on your Start Menu choose “Properties”
2. Uncheck “Store and display recently opened items in the Start menu and the taskbar”
3. Click Apply”
4. Re-Check “Store and display recently opened items in the Start menu and the taskbar”
5. Click OK”

You should now be able to remove the frozen items from your Windows Explorer jumplist:

1. Right Click on the Windows Explorer icon on the Taskbar
2. Click on the blue pin beside each item that you want to remove

Voila! Your jumplist is pristine again!

[sniplet Amazon-Windows7-Graphical]

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One final word before I talk any further… This is Beta software. Your results may vary, and there is significant potential that you could really do some damage to your photography collection if you use this software. It hasn’t been released for production yet because it’s not ready. Be careful.

• Video Support: We didn’t get full on video editing yet, but at least we finally have some rudimentary management tools that allow viewing, flagging, keywording, and captioning of video files in exactly the same way that still images are cataloged. I certainly hope that they expand this further to include basic edits (clipping, exporting, and global exposure adjustments) but for now this is a huge step over the old version!
• Tethered Shooting: With this version they have added support importing live images directly into Lightroom when shooting while a camera is connected to the computer. This is a studio and product shooters dream. I won’t use it a lot, but every once in awhile it will be very useful.
• Performance Improvements: I haven’t tested the new version enough to fully buy into this one yet, but I really hope that this one is true, and the new version does seem to be a little bit snappier. I will definitely be watching to see how this pans out.

For a complete list of the new and upgraded features the best place to go is the Lightroom Team Blog. You can also check out the release notes included with the update.

To download the program head on over to the Adobe Labs site.

Here are a few more sites you can check for additional information and commentary:

• Jeffrey Friedl’s: Lightroom 3 Beta 2 and My Plugins
• The Lightroom Queen: What’s New in Lightroom 3.0 Beta 2?
• Terry White: Lightroom 3 Public Beta 2: What’s New?

[sniplet Amazon-PhotoSoftware-Graphical]

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The tip itself is very simple: Back up your data! Your photos don’t really exist until they exist in at least two places. Hard Drives fail. Optical Discs rot. Floppy Discs are tiny. So what do you do? You make sure that you have multiple copies of every single one of your important files. And you really should have one backup copy of all your important data that is quickly and easily accessible, and another copy that is stored at an off-site location that can’t be affected by the same flood, fire, or theft that could get the other two copies.

Hard Drivesare cheap. If you just consider your backup drives as part of your photographic kit (just like the camera, lenses, and these days the computer too) then you will be in a much better place mentally when it comes to buying them. You need all of these things in order to successfully create, manipulate, and preserve your images. It’s just that simple.

How to Backup

This is the long part. I’m not going to tell you how to backup your photos and other important documents. That’s up to you. But I will tell you what I do, and why I do it. Unfortunately, because my system is so robust it is also quite complicated. And that takes a long time to describe…

I recognize that most people won’t even come close to doing what I do. But I hope you will do some of it, because (say it with me) “All Hard Drives Fail“. Even if you only do some of this it will be much more likely that your data is safe.

• First of all I keep the original copies of all of my important documents, data, and recent photos on my laptop. I would prefer to keep absolutely everything on my laptop, but laptop hard drives simply aren’t available that are big enough to do so; therefore, I can only keep my recent work on my laptop and older stuff must be stored elsewhere.
• My laptop and my desktop are connected via a network and I do automatic backups of all my important documents so that they are readily available on either machine. The frequency of these backups varies depending on the type of data.

  The automatic backup is done using AJC Directory Synchronizer. This is a very powerful program that allows you to choose exactly what you want to backup and where you want it to go. It is easily scheduled via the Windows task manager so you can create multiple jobs with appropriate frequencies for each job. I have used many similar pieces of software over the years and I’m much happier with this one than I was with any of the others…

• I have 2 D-Link DNS-323 Network Attached Storage (NAS) cases that each contain 2 Hard Drives. One of the drives in each NAS contains my entire photography library (including the recent work from my laptop), which I can access directly over the network from either computer using Adobe Lightroom or Windows Explorer. The other drive in each NAS contains all of my other data and documents. I do an automatic backup every week to copy everything from the primary NAS to the secondary NAS. This backup syncs any additions, deletions, or changes to any files on the primary. I do this weekly because that provides a nice buffer in case I make a mistake on either of the computers and it gets propagated to the primary NAS before I catch it. I then have a few days to recover any necessary files from the secondary NAS.
• This next part may sound crazy to some of you, but it is actually the most important part of my backup strategy… I use a portable USB drive that contains another copy of absolutely everything, and I store this drive off-site. This protects me in case of fire, flood, or any other major disaster that would impact my house, and which could potentially destroy all of the other backup copies at the same time. I only update this drive every few weeks, so there is always some exposure to losing my most recent files, but I have years worth of work stored on this drive that will always be safe.

  This drive can be stored at your workplace, at a friends house, in a safety deposit box, or even in your vehicle (as long as you don’t park it in the garage attached to your house!). The important part is that it must be an off-site backup, and therefore you have to get it out of your house. With this drive stored somewhere else, my absolute worst case is that I lose a few weeks worth of data.

  Note that I even go to the extreme of taking my secondary NAS off-site prior to bringing in my external drive!
  

Note that if you have a relatively small amount of data, a system like this could easily be created by using 2 inexpensive USB Hard Drives. These are readily available for under $100 if you need 1TB or less. You could use one drive as your primary backup and the other as the off-site backup. In fact this is exactly what I did for a long time before my storage needs outpaced the USB drives that I had. One benefit of using the NAS cases is that they are directly connected to my gigabit ethernet network, and I really like the performance and speed that the NAS is capable of.

The beauty of this system is that it can be easily upgraded by replacing the portable hard drives as your storage needs get bigger. These drives get bigger, faster, and cheaper all the time. Depending on how much storage space you need, you may never have to do this. Or you might need to start off with a multi-bay NAS right off the bat if you already have lots of data and you don’t have a good backup system.

So even if you only get one backup drive, and even if you only backup your data every once in awhile, I hope you are doing something. Do whatever works for you! Feel free to drop me a line if you need some help setting up your backup system!

[sniplet Amazon-HDD-Graphical]

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If you even try to login to Windows Live service once (definitely including such original titles as Windows Live ID, Windows Live Messenger, but probably others too), they setup your computer to automatically prompt you to log back in the next time you reboot. Not only that but clicking on the Big Red X doesn’t make the program go away, it merely minimizes it (for your convenience they say) so that it’s at the ready for you the next time you want to use it. Not only that, but they don’t provide any obvious way to prevent it from prompting you for your password the next time it reboots. Not only that, but if you search for a way to uninstall said program, you won’t find anything called Windows Live Messenger or Windows Live ID. Their are other Windows Live components in the Installed Programs list, but nothing obviously related to these pieces of garbage.

Very nice Microsoft. Thanks. It’s no wonder people hate Microsoft so passionately!

If you really want to uninstall this garbage permanently, do the following:

1. Open the Start Menu and click on Control Panel
2. click on “Uninstall a Program”
3. Scroll all the way to the bottom and find “Windows Live Essentials”
4. Click Uninstall/Change
5. Select the radio button beside “Uninstall” and then click “Continue”
6. Tick the boxes beside for the Services you want to prevent from harrassing you. High on your list should be “Messenger”. Note that some of the Live services are actually useful and you may want to keep them.
7. Click “Continue” and the annoyances will go away.

It should be a lot easier for users to identify the programs that they want to remove and/or to prevent from harassing them. Microsoft, fix this.

[sniplet Amazon-Windows7-Graphical]

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Most likely he had a temporary glitch in the wireless connection and it eventually started working again on its own. Sometimes that happens, but usually not. I get so frustrated with wireless connectivity that I leave my laptop plugged into the router with an Ethernet cable most of the time. My wife complains about losing connections on her laptop almost daily.

Problems are often caused by cordless phones and other wireless devices operating on the same frequency as the router. If you have a 2.4 ghz phone, that could easily be the cause. Even if you don’t have a cordless phone, one of your neighbors might, and that could be enough to occasionally interfere with your wireless connection. Note that if your wireless phone is 2.4 ghz then you might consider replacing it with a DECT phone. They operate on an otherwise unused bit of wireless spectrum and should not interfere at all…

When you lose your wireless connection (and you will), try the following steps (in order):

1. Check to see if the wireless connection is disabled using a hardware on/off button. Most modern laptops have these, and they are usually just above the keyboard, but it may be different depending on your hardware.
2. Right click on the network icon in the Windows system tray. Choose “Diagnose and Repair”. Let it do its thing. Most of the time this will solve the problem.
3. Check to see if you have internet connectivity on another computer or wireless device. If you do, try plugging your computer into the router or directly to the modem. If either of these connections work, reboot your computer and test the wireless connection again.
4. Unplug the Router and the Cable or DSL Modem. Wait about 15 seconds and plug the cable modem back in. Wait another 15 seconds and plug the router back in. Wait another 30-60 seconds and check your laptop to see if the connection is fixed. You may need to try to “Diagnose and Repair” the problem again.
5. Contact your Cable or DSL Internet Service Provider to see if there are any problems with your service area.
6. Start “Windows Update” and check to see if there are any driver updates for your computer. Sometimes these are “Optional” updates that may not automatically install; they might help though so in my opinion they are usually worth installing.

If none of the above steps work then it is likely that your problems are much more serious than usual. You may have a faulty router or modem, or a bad network card in your computer. Try rebooting all of the devices again, including the router and the modem. Try testing with another computer or device, such as a friends iPod Touch or laptop. Try contacting your Cable or DSL Internet Service Provider again.

If you go through all of these steps, you should be able to get your wireless connection working again. If nothing works then you may need to get an expert in to help. Good luck!

[sniplet Amazon-Wireless-Graphical]

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