I previously posted a review of the i-GotU GT-200 GPS Data Logger and that article is by far the most popular post I have on this site. I’ve never really been happy with this device and I had planned to sell it, but I never actually got around to it. I recently started using it again because I went on a couple of photography outings for which I really wanted to be able to record my track and to geotag my photos. Since then I have been using it regularly again and so I thought I should post an updated review. Here are a few comments that I have after a few more weeks of use:

The things that I dislike the most about this gadget haven’t changed:

• The indication lights on it are hard to see and difficult to interpret.
• The on/off button is not a tactile switch, and it is easily pressed unintentionally.
• There is no battery indicator so it’s really a guess as to its charge status.
• The device can’t be mounted directly as a drive on the computer.
• It uses a proprietary USB cable instead of a standard cable.

Honestly, most of the things I like about it haven’t changed either:

• It is very small and lightweight.
• It is accurate enough for my needs.
• The battery life is good.

There has been one major improvement that I have to mention; there is an updated version of the @trip PC Suite management software for the device (that is used both to setup the device options and also to download the data) that actually installs correctly. When I first got the gadget, installation of the included version of the software repeatedly failed, miserably, and I had to jump through hoops to get it to work. The new version installed easily. Note that if you have the 64-bit version of Windows 7 you need to download a beta version of the @trip PC software. I can’t see how it’s any different from the full version, and it also installed perfectly on my laptop.

So that’s about it. I’m going to continue to use the device for now, but I am looking at other devices that will mount directly as a drive in Windows. This would speed up my workflow enough that I would be more likely to use it all the time. I’ve read some pretty good reviews of the Amod AGL3080 and that will likely be the next GPS Datalogger that I pick up.

This is another one of those very quick tips that’s going to take me a long time to say.

The tip itself is very simple: Back up your data! Your photos don’t really exist until they exist in at least two places. Hard Drives fail. Optical Discs rot. Floppy Discs are tiny. So what do you do? You make sure that you have multiple copies of every single one of your important files. And you really should have one backup copy of all your important data that is quickly and easily accessible, and another copy that is stored at an off-site location that can’t be affected by the same flood, fire, or theft that could get the other two copies.

Hard Drivesare cheap. If you just consider your backup drives as part of your photographic kit (just like the camera, lenses, and these days the computer too) then you will be in a much better place mentally when it comes to buying them. You need all of these things in order to successfully create, manipulate, and preserve your images. It’s just that simple.

How to Backup

This is the long part. I’m not going to tell you how to backup your photos and other important documents. That’s up to you. But I will tell you what I do, and why I do it. Unfortunately, because my system is so robust it is also quite complicated. And that takes a long time to describe…

I recognize that most people won’t even come close to doing what I do. But I hope you will do some of it, because (say it with me) “All Hard Drives Fail“. Even if you only do some of this it will be much more likely that your data is safe.

• First of all I keep the original copies of all of my important documents, data, and recent photos on my laptop. I would prefer to keep absolutely everything on my laptop, but laptop hard drives simply aren’t available that are big enough to do so; therefore, I can only keep my recent work on my laptop and older stuff must be stored elsewhere.
• My laptop and my desktop are connected via a network and I do automatic backups of all my important documents so that they are readily available on either machine. The frequency of these backups varies depending on the type of data.

  The automatic backup is done using AJC Directory Synchronizer. This is a very powerful program that allows you to choose exactly what you want to backup and where you want it to go. It is easily scheduled via the Windows task manager so you can create multiple jobs with appropriate frequencies for each job. I have used many similar pieces of software over the years and I’m much happier with this one than I was with any of the others…

• I have 2 D-Link DNS-323 Network Attached Storage (NAS) cases that each contain 2 Hard Drives. One of the drives in each NAS contains my entire photography library (including the recent work from my laptop), which I can access directly over the network from either computer using Adobe Lightroom or Windows Explorer. The other drive in each NAS contains all of my other data and documents. I do an automatic backup every week to copy everything from the primary NAS to the secondary NAS. This backup syncs any additions, deletions, or changes to any files on the primary. I do this weekly because that provides a nice buffer in case I make a mistake on either of the computers and it gets propagated to the primary NAS before I catch it. I then have a few days to recover any necessary files from the secondary NAS.
• This next part may sound crazy to some of you, but it is actually the most important part of my backup strategy… I use a portable USB drive that contains another copy of absolutely everything, and I store this drive off-site. This protects me in case of fire, flood, or any other major disaster that would impact my house, and which could potentially destroy all of the other backup copies at the same time. I only update this drive every few weeks, so there is always some exposure to losing my most recent files, but I have years worth of work stored on this drive that will always be safe.

  This drive can be stored at your workplace, at a friends house, in a safety deposit box, or even in your vehicle (as long as you don’t park it in the garage attached to your house!). The important part is that it must be an off-site backup, and therefore you have to get it out of your house. With this drive stored somewhere else, my absolute worst case is that I lose a few weeks worth of data.

  Note that I even go to the extreme of taking my secondary NAS off-site prior to bringing in my external drive!
  

Note that if you have a relatively small amount of data, a system like this could easily be created by using 2 inexpensive USB Hard Drives. These are readily available for under $100 if you need 1TB or less. You could use one drive as your primary backup and the other as the off-site backup. In fact this is exactly what I did for a long time before my storage needs outpaced the USB drives that I had. One benefit of using the NAS cases is that they are directly connected to my gigabit ethernet network, and I really like the performance and speed that the NAS is capable of.

The beauty of this system is that it can be easily upgraded by replacing the portable hard drives as your storage needs get bigger. These drives get bigger, faster, and cheaper all the time. Depending on how much storage space you need, you may never have to do this. Or you might need to start off with a multi-bay NAS right off the bat if you already have lots of data and you don’t have a good backup system.

So even if you only get one backup drive, and even if you only backup your data every once in awhile, I hope you are doing something. Do whatever works for you! Feel free to drop me a line if you need some help setting up your backup system!

I recently gave the i-GotU GPS Dataloggers what I would call a pretty scathing review.

I’ll let you read the entire review yourself for all the pros (there are a couple) and cons (there are lots) about the device, but the short story is that while the device works reasonably well, in my opinion the software that it ships with and the device itself are flaky and need massive useability improvements. Note that my review specifically covered the GT-200 unit, but the GT-120 has essentially the same feature set and therefore the same pros and cons.

I would not recommend this device for any serious photographer looking to geotag images with the GPS coordinates at which the image was created. There may be people for whom this gadget would be great (for an interesting (and far less negative) review please see the recent article over at imaging-resource.com), but I am simply not one of them.

Now to the update… I recently took this device with my on a week long trip from Calgary, Alberta, through Glacier National Park in Montana, down to Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming, back up to Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park in southern Alberta, and then back home to Calgary. For almost the entire week the device tracked my route and location perfectly. I charged it every couple of days and I have great data from Glacier and Writing-on-Stone, and for most of the 4 days in Yellowstone. But. Not. All. Of. Yellowstone.

Mysteriously, the unit simply stopped recording for an entire day in the middle of the trip. It didn’t shut off. The battery wan’t dead. It continued to blink at regular intervals to show that it was alive and well. It even blinked appropriately when I hit its button (yes, it has only one) to mark specific waypoints. But it didn’t record any of it.

I made over a thousand images that day as we travelled extensively through the park, including several hours of walking at Upper Geyser Basin (home of Old Faithful). I’m not amused.

I was already considering getting rid of my GT-200, but this trip was the final straw that clinched it. Anybody want to buy it?? Who can suggest a better one for me??

Let me start off by making it clear this this is a mini-review of the Mobile Action i-gotU GT-200 specifically for use by photographers.   There are many other uses for the device, but my review specifically relates to using it for geotagging images with the GPS coordinates for the location in which the image was made.

I say mini review because I didn’t subject it to rigorous tests or comparisons.  I didn’t beat it up, flush it down the toilet, or drive over it with my truck.  Rather, I simply used it.  I’ve had it for about 6 weeks and in that time I’ve made almost 3000 images (yes, that’s three thousand); I’ve used it every day while driving to work; I took it on a relaxing vacation at a cottage; I took it with me on a 3 day canoe trip into Algonquin Provincial Park in northern Ontario; and I took it to Banff National Park for a weekend of camping and photowalking.

Note that the real purpose of this device is to track the route that you take.  The bundled software then has the ability to display that route on a map, and it will also allow you to import photos to link from the map.  It really wasn’t designed as a device to embed GPS coordinates into the metadata of a photo; however, by combining the hardware with some after-market software it provides everything required to do so.  It is also relatively cheap (less than $100 vs. upwards of $200 for most photography specific GPS devices) and I had seen a positive recommendation of it for this purpose, so I went ahead and bought one.

There may be better gadgets out there to do the job, but this is the one that I have and I wanted to talk about a few of its good points and also about a few areas where it needs some improvement.  But first I’m going to talk a little bit about the options available to get started with geotagging  (feel free to jump straight to the review if you already know all about these devices).

Hardware Only Options: Canon vs. Nikon

This is one of those areas where Nikon has it right and Canon has it all wrong.  Users of most of the newer Nikon DSLR models have their choice of a couple of simple GPS device that plugs directly into the camera, which then automagically embeds the GPS location directly into the metadata for the photo.  A quick search on Amazon.com reveals several devices that will do the job from $120 (the Geometr) up to $200 (the Nikon GP-1). These gadgets work with the D90, D200, D300, D700, D3, D3X, and even the older D2Hs, D2X, and D2Xs models.  Plug it into the camera and you’re done.  Start taking pictures and every image will be tagged with the location.

UPDATE – if you’re a Nikon shooter then go over and see Matt Ballard’s article Geotagging Photos & Nikon DSLR GPS Options…

Canon on the other hand only provides the ability to directly tag images after you buy the add on wireless transmitter specific to your camera model.  The Canon WFT-E2A for the Canon 1D Mark III lists for $675 at Amazon.com, while the Canon WFT-E3A that works with my Canon 40D goes for about $700.  Similar hardware is available for the 20D, 30D, 50D, 5D, 5D Mark II, and all the professional grade 1D cameras.

But you’re not done there!!!  After buying the transmitter you must still purchase a GPS device to plug into the transmitter, and these are priced similarily to the devices made for the Nikons (in fact many of the after-market options will work with either Canon or Nikon if you have the correct adapter plug).  So Canon owners are looking at an initial outlay of $700-$800 just to get started if they want to go with the hardware only option.  Ouch.

Hardware + Software Options

If you don’t have a compatible Nikon DSLR, or if you simply can’t afford (or won’t pay) the price to get into the Canon hardware, then you have to go old-school and use software to do your geotagging in the computer after capture.  Software has been available to do so for several years, but it’s really only been in widespread use for the last year or so.  And you aren’t limited to Canon or Nikon, and for that matter this works with almost any image file.

If you use the right software then you don’t even actually need to purchase a GPS data logging device; you can skip straight into the software and add the GPS cooredinates for known locations manually. This can be pretty time consuming, but if you are a Lightroom user than you should check out Jeffrey Friedl’s Geoencoding plugin for Lightroom.  It is a very poweral option that works with or without a GPS data logging device.  You can enter the GPS data manually, or you can even pull it directly from a map location using Google Earth.

But if you do have a GPS device, then it all gets even easier.  I have already been using Breeze Downloader Pro to pull all the images off my flash cards and ingest them into my custom folder hierarchy.  This program has way too many features to even begin to talk about them all here (maybe the subject for another review), but one of them is Automatic geotagging of images as they are downloaded, by reading GPS data from a device such as the and storing latitude and longitude positional information in the shooting data of the image.  It works by reading directly from some GPS devices, or from a GPX tracklog that you can export from other devices.  This is very cool software that just works.  And it works very well if the data you are feeding it is any good.

An alternative is Microsoft’s Pro Photo Tools.  I understand that it also has a very rich feature set, but I’ve never used it so I can’t comment about it directly.

i-GotU GT-200

So new we finally get to the review.  Note that while I’m specifically talking about the GT-200, from everything I’ve read the GT-100 and GT-120 are essentially the same from a photography perspective; they have some different features and capabilities, but for geotagging they are pretty much equivalent.

Some things that need to be improved on the GT-200:

1. There’s no tactile onoff switch.  There is one button on the face of the device that you hold down to turn it on, and then hold it down again to turn it off.  It’s easy to turn on and off accidentally, and there’s no way to tell what position the switch is in.  In fact I have carried it around for entire days thinking that it was recording my every step, only to find out later that there was no data for the entire day.
2. There’s no screen or indicator light constantly shows you whether the device is on or off. There are two lights, on red and one blue, underneath a piece of semi-opaque white plastic that occasionally flash when the device is on.  Depending on the pattern of the flashes you are supposed to be able to determine the status.  Unfortunately the lights are almost impossible to see in bright sunlight and it’s not always obvious what the lights are trying to say.  I’ve stared at it for up to a minute before and still didn’t know for sure what the device was doing.
3. It really needs a fixed anchor point to easily attach it to a pack or a camera strap.  It is marketed as a gadget for the active user, and as such it includes a silicone sleeve that both protects it from damage and that has a belt loop to attach it the ourside of your bag, your belt, or a camera strap.  Unfortunately the silicon is very soft and it’s extremely easy to pull the device right out of the sleeve.  I had it attached the outside of my pack for an entire canoe trip and almost lost it twice.  A D ring or something similar firmly attached to the chassis of the device (like the attachment point for a camera strap) would be much better.
4. The included software really sucks.  It is buggy and crashes all the time.  I had to download several different versions from the website before I found one that worked at all on my computer, and even then I had to find an elaborate hack to enable the USB driver on the 64-bit version of Windows Vista.  I’m not going to post a link, rather I’m going to suggest that if you are running 64-bit Vista, stop right now and go find a better device.  I hear the Sony GPS-CS1 is nice.
5. The device does not mount as a drive in Windows (I’m not sure about on a Mac, but I doubt it).  If it did then I wouldn’t even need to use the software.  I only use the software because I need to export a GPX tracklog that can be accessed by Downloader Pro or by the Geoencoding Plugin for Lightroom.  This omission would actually be a deal breaker for me if I were buying a new GPS data logger today.  While reading an article about the GT-200 prior to buying it I mistakenly interpreted the article to say that it could be accessed directly.  I was extremely dissapointed to discover that it doesn’t work that way.
6. While the device is reasonably accurate while you are moving, it goes haywire when you stop.  In fact I would even say it is very accurate while you are moving as it typically resolves my location within a few feet (as compared to Google Maps).  But as soon as you stop, it seems to think that it is still moving and it jumps all over the place.  When I look at my tracklogs for locations where I put my bag down and left it there for any period of time, the location shifts all over the place and it often shows a random path that jumps by as much as 100 meters from where the device sat.  It really doesn’t matter all that much from a geotagging perspective, but it is very odd and something that should be pretty easy to fix.
7. UPDATE – I forgot this one when I originally wrote the article, but it really annoys me!  The included cable to connect the gadget to the computer has a standard USB plug on the computer end, but a ridiculous proprietary plug on the other end.  So instead of being able to use one of about a dozen standard USB cables that ALL of my other gadgets use, I have to have the exact cable that came with this device.  And if I lose it?  It just escapes me how anyone thought this was a good idea…

The things I like about the GT-200:

1. It is very small and lightweight.
2. It is more than accurate for my needs, most of the time.  See #6 above for the rest of the story.
3. The battery life is very good.  Of course I have turned the scanning rate down so that it only records every 30 seconds, but that gives me more than 3 days of battery life.  If you need more resolution then the battery life will get proportionally worse.
4. It’s easy to use and it works.

As you can see, my list of likes is quite a bit shorter than my list of desired improvements.  Unfortunately the things I like about it are basic requirements for me, and I assume that any other similar device will also be good enough.

The Final Word

While the i-GotU GT-200 GPS data logger does what it says it will do, and it does it well enough, I want a better, more reliable device.  The fact that this device does not mount as a drive to allow direct access to the logged data would be a deal breaker for me if I were looking for a new device.  The fact that there is no tactile on/off switch, and that there is no immediate and obvious way to determine the status of the device is equally annoying for me.

I would not recommend this device as a data logger for anyone that is serious about embedding their GPS location into the metadata of all of their photos.   It would be fine for occasional use, or for somebody who simply wants a pretty map showing where they’ve been.  But there are lots of other gadgets out there that do that pretty well too.

If you’ve ever had a hard drive failure you’ll know exactly why I’m writing about this topic. If you haven’t, know that you will, and I hope for your sake that you will be prepared for it. Hard drives die. It’s a simple truth, and not a matter of if, only when.

Backing up your stuff is a very personal thing. I probably go way overboard on this, but I’ve made a conscious decision that I don’t want to lose any of my important files, ever. Mostly that means my original images and other photography data, but it also includes all of my other important documents such as personal letters and financial and tax data. I even include the settings for some of my favorite and most important software iin this category. I have all kinds of presets and defaults for Lightroom in particular that would be just plain painful to figure out how to reset if the main drive on my computer were to fail, so I make sure to back that up too.

Backing up your stuff doesn’t need to be complicated or expensive. You don’t need to run out and buy a NAS box (network attached storage) to connect to your home network, and you definitely don’t need to shell out the cash for a Drobo (but that would be awesome!) or a hardware Raid system.

Backing up can be as simple as buying a second drive and manually copying your important stuff over every couple of weeks. This could be a second internal drive in your desktop machine, but these days it’s far easier to pick up an inexpensive external drive that you can connect via USB or Firewire.

Using a simple backup strategy like this will protect you from a single drive failure. Keep in mind that this will only protect the data that you have up to date on the backup drive, so if it’s been a couple of weeks since you did your most recent copy, you may still lose a lot of files. For me that would likely be hundreds (and sometimes thousands) of new photos. It’s also important to be aware that this will only be protection against a drive failure. It won’t protect you from a natural disaster such as a fire or a flood unless you store the backup drive somewhere other than in your house. It’s easy enough to keep it in your shed, your car, or over at a friend or relatives house, but doing so makes it that much more likely that your most recent backup will be from weeks ago instead of just days…

A much better strategy would be to buy two external drives. Keep one of them connected to your computer, and store the second one at an off-site location. Use software that will automatically copy your important files to the connected drive at regular frequencies, and swap out the two drives every couple of weeks.

Although my personal backup strategy is much more complicated than this (in order to ensure absolute redundancy), the basis for it is essentially this second alternative. I like to do a backup every night using a an automatic backup program called “AJC Directory Synchronizer“.

There are many other programs out there that would also do the trick, but this one works and it’s not very expensive. Windows users should also check out “Cobian Backup” (it’s free!). I’ve never used it but it gets great reviews.

Of course Mac users should check out “Time Machine” and “Super Dooper“. The combination of these two systems working together will make your life so much easier than anything available for Windows…