I don’t typically get too excited about beta software, particularly for my production environment, but this is one that I’ve really been waiting for! The first public beta of Lightroom 3 didn’t get me too excited. It didn’t really offer enough new stuff for me to bother with the hassles of the fact that it was beta, and in fact it had certain features that were disabled that made it problematic to use (like luminance noise reduction). But the new beta offers several new features that I’ve been hoping to see in Lightroom and I will definitely be giving this version a full workout.

One final word before I talk any further… This is Beta software. Your results may vary, and there is significant potential that you could really do some damage to your photography collection if you use this software. It hasn’t been released for production yet because it’s not ready. Be careful.

• Video Support: We didn’t get full on video editing yet, but at least we finally have some rudimentary management tools that allow viewing, flagging, keywording, and captioning of video files in exactly the same way that still images are cataloged. I certainly hope that they expand this further to include basic edits (clipping, exporting, and global exposure adjustments) but for now this is a huge step over the old version!
• Tethered Shooting: With this version they have added support importing live images directly into Lightroom when shooting while a camera is connected to the computer. This is a studio and product shooters dream. I won’t use it a lot, but every once in awhile it will be very useful.
• Performance Improvements: I haven’t tested the new version enough to fully buy into this one yet, but I really hope that this one is true, and the new version does seem to be a little bit snappier. I will definitely be watching to see how this pans out.

For a complete list of the new and upgraded features the best place to go is the Lightroom Team Blog. You can also check out the release notes included with the update.

To download the program head on over to the Adobe Labs site.

Here are a few more sites you can check for additional information and commentary:

• Jeffrey Friedl’s: Lightroom 3 Beta 2 and My Plugins
• The Lightroom Queen: What’s New in Lightroom 3.0 Beta 2?
• Terry White: Lightroom 3 Public Beta 2: What’s New?

Photographic workflow is a massive subject and is probably the hardest thing for new photographers to get right as they take more and more images, and as they get deeper into post-processing those files. It is so easy to shot in rapid-fire these days, and there’s no added cost to creating more photographic files, so getting the whole workflow thing nailed is very important.

Fortunately there are some really great pieces of software such as Adobe Lightroom (Windows or Mac) and Apple Aperture (Mac only) out there that help to make life easier and workflow faster.

I get asked about this all the time so I thought I would share my workflow here. By no means would I ever say that this is the best or most efficient workflow; rather, it’s just what I do. It work well very me and it is actually possible to go through hundreds of images pretty quickly.

1. Download all files from memory cards to the computer using Breeze Downloader Pro. The software automatically applies metdata including my name, address, copyright info, and a few keywords about me. It also creates date based folders on my computer that fits into my existing storage hierarchy, and it renames every file so that I will never ever have images with duplicate file names. Note that this is a real possibility as most cameras only go as high as 10,000 images before reusing old file names.
2. Import all the images into Lightroom. I automatically apply a preset with a few develop settings that I’ve found to be a good starting point for my images. The applied preset is specific to the camera that was used to make the images.
3. First pass review of the images. I mark all the bad ones (out of focus, massively over or underexposed, or just plain ugly or boring images) for deletion, and also mark some of the very best as “Picks”.
4. Second pass review. Very similar to the first pass, only this time I do some minor image adjustments (Cropping, White Balance, Exposure, and Contrast) to see if marginal images can be improved or if I should just delete them. At this point I also use the color flags in Lightroom to mark images for upload to my various websites, online galleries, and stock agencies. I also use the Lightroom Stacking feature to group images that were shot in a set for processing as HDR or Panoramic images later.
5. Add additional metadata to all the remaining images. Includes generic keywords for all images about the shoot, the location, the weather conditions, and anything else that might apply to every image in the folder. I also apply specific keywords to individual images about the subject matter, people, and places involved so that I can easily find the images later.
6. Add a Title and a Caption to every image. For the images marked earlier as “Picks” or with color flags these titles and captions will be very specific with lots of detail. For the other images the title and caption will be very generic, and may be identical for many images.
7. Every image that will be uploaded or printed will then get additional processing. Final edits to Cropping, White Balance, Exposure, Sharpening, Saturation, and Vignetting. At this point I will also remove dust spots and do any local editing to smaller areas of some images. I will also play with some images to see if they look better in Black and White or with some added special effects. I don’t do a lot of this, but Lightroom makes it extremely fast and easy, and most of the time edits to one image can be very quickly and easily applied to a whole series of images that were shot under the same conditions.
8. At this point I will process any images that will be merged as HDR or as Panoramic images. I do lots of both of these, but I use automated tools to do most of the work that make this process very simple. These processes can be time consuming, but for the most part I set them up in batches and walk away while the computer does the work. Any merged HDR or Pano images will also need another pass of editing similar to step 7 to finalize them.
9. Upload to my online galleries. Post to Twitter, Facebook, or my Blog. Upload images to stock agencies for sale.
10. Backup everything. This is automated and happens overnight.
11. Backup everything in 3 more places. This is automated and happens gradually over the following two weeks.

That’s just about it. This probably sounds like a lot of work, but honestly Lightroom makes it fast and easy. I can go through a batch of 100 images in under an hour. And it scales up easily too. I’ve done 1000 images in under two hours before. There are always individual images that that may need additional work, or images that I really like that I may go back to and revisit from time to time, but this is the main part of my workflow.

What do you think? How is your workflow different? What do you see here that I could improve?

I got a few followup questions from my friend after my response to his request for advice about baby photography, so I figured I might as well put my additional answers up here too:

Should I be taking the shot in B/W or converting it later?

I always shoot in color and convert in software later. That way you have both options. If you shoot in B&W in the camera then you are stuck with it. But if you shoot in RAW (rather than JPG) then it doesn’t matter. The preview on the back of the camera would be in B&W if you shoot in B&W mode (which can be helpful to visualize the image in B&W), but the actually file will have full color and you can do whatever you want with the file.

Lens Hood required with the 50mm?

I use hoods on all my lenses to help protect the lenses if I drop them. The hoods for the 50′s are so small that they don’t really help much for flare or reflections. You can get after-market hoods for most lenses from stores like DealExtreme.com for less than $10 (compared to 2 to 3 times as much for branded hoods from Canon and Nikon), so for me it’s a no-brainer.

I have the 580EX [flash], should I be leaving it at home? Or is bouncing flash of the ceiling OK to do in low light?

Nice flash! I carry my flashes with me all the time and I use them a lot. I pretty much only use them by bouncing off the walls or the ceiling (or off-camera in a Softbox). It’s a different look than ambient only, but if you’re careful with it then it can still look very good. I probably use a flash less with my 50 than with other lenses, but I still use it a lot. You may want to use it at the hospital, but they may not be very happy with you if you do. I would definitely take it so you have it if you need it! After you bring baby home then you will be shooting so much that you should experiment with flash and no-flash and see what you like.

A friend of mine recently asked for some advice on how to make some great images of his newborn baby.

“We’re having our first child in a couple of weeks and I just started a photography course. I’m looking for some tips on getting some decent shots. You being a Dad AND an accomplished shutterbug, I thought I might pick your brain a bit. It was suggested to me to pick up a 50mm 1.8 lens. I have a 40D which puts the lens at approx 80mm after crop factor. Obviously flash probably shouldn’t be used, so I was wondering if you could please toss a little guidance my way.”

I quickly came up with a few great tips that I wanted to share here too:

1. Consider Black and White, and use Tight Depth of Field - Brand new Babies are often blotchy and scaly and if you photograph them in color then they tend to look funny. Black and White images can hide lots of that stuff. So does a really large aperture and tight cropping. This is where a lens like the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 comes in. It is very inexpensive (around $100) and has a very wide maximum aperture that allows you to highlight a sweet spot of the scene, such as the eyes or the face of the baby. (I wouldn’t actually shoot it at 1.8 because the depth of field would be so narrow that much of the image would look blurry. If you use something like f/2.8 then you can really bring the attention to the part of the image that you want, while still giving yourself a chance of making the image in focus).
2. 
   Move Closer - When you think you’re close enough, take another step closer! A series of tightly cropped shots are often much better than trying to show everything in one image. And portrait where the subject almost completely fill the frame are almost always better than images where the subject is small in the frame. Having said that, make sure you shoot a little bit of everything, from really wide to very tight just to make sure you capture everything that you might want to remember later.
3. Shoot the Details – Baby hands and feet are really cute, so don’t forget to make some nice images of them. Make sure you also get a few shots of the hospital details that you will only see in the first few days. The birth announcement, the name card on the bassinet, the wrist band (security ID) on Baby’s arm or leg, etc. You might also want get a few images of the doctors, nurses, and any other people in the hospital that make your life better while you’re there. The key is to have a camera with you at all times for the first few days.
4. Use Window Light on a Cloudy Day - After the initial excitement of Baby’s arrival drops off, you’ll want to make some great portraits while the baby is still tiny. It’s still winter in our neck of the woods and we’ve had lots of those foggy days lately where the light coming in the window is extremely soft and bright white. This is fantastic light for portraits. Set baby up in a blanky (or in mom’s arms) near the window and use that light to your advantage. This is much easier than trying to make light from a flash look good because you can see what you’ve got before actually taking the picture. Try it, you’ll like it!

These are all great ways to make sure you get some great images of your baby and some of the details of her arrival.You’ll look back on these images many many times over the coming years, so you really should try to do it right!

A few more thoughts about 50mm lenses:

I love mine and I use it all the time. In fact I have two of them; an older 50 f/1.8 and a brand new Canon 50mm f/1.4. I really love the 1.4 version because it focuses extremely quickly and it’s incredibly sharp. The 1.8 is also very good (especially for the price), and I happily used it for years before upgrading, but it focuses really slowly, especially in low light. The good news is that really little babies don’t move very quickly so you can set up every shot very carefully and get your focus bang on! Either one of them make fantastic portrait lenses because the focal length is just right for making images that look pretty natural to the human eye (ie. it is very similar to what we see with our own eyes). But they also allow very tight DOF which lets you to blur out the distractions in the background. I definitely recommend buying one if you have the cash.

I’d love to hear what has worked well for you when making portraits of your children (or your clients children). Hit me in the comments below!

This is another one of those very quick tips that’s going to take me a long time to say.

The tip itself is very simple: Back up your data! Your photos don’t really exist until they exist in at least two places. Hard Drives fail. Optical Discs rot. Floppy Discs are tiny. So what do you do? You make sure that you have multiple copies of every single one of your important files. And you really should have one backup copy of all your important data that is quickly and easily accessible, and another copy that is stored at an off-site location that can’t be affected by the same flood, fire, or theft that could get the other two copies.

Hard Drivesare cheap. If you just consider your backup drives as part of your photographic kit (just like the camera, lenses, and these days the computer too) then you will be in a much better place mentally when it comes to buying them. You need all of these things in order to successfully create, manipulate, and preserve your images. It’s just that simple.

How to Backup

This is the long part. I’m not going to tell you how to backup your photos and other important documents. That’s up to you. But I will tell you what I do, and why I do it. Unfortunately, because my system is so robust it is also quite complicated. And that takes a long time to describe…

I recognize that most people won’t even come close to doing what I do. But I hope you will do some of it, because (say it with me) “All Hard Drives Fail“. Even if you only do some of this it will be much more likely that your data is safe.

• First of all I keep the original copies of all of my important documents, data, and recent photos on my laptop. I would prefer to keep absolutely everything on my laptop, but laptop hard drives simply aren’t available that are big enough to do so; therefore, I can only keep my recent work on my laptop and older stuff must be stored elsewhere.
• My laptop and my desktop are connected via a network and I do automatic backups of all my important documents so that they are readily available on either machine. The frequency of these backups varies depending on the type of data.

  The automatic backup is done using AJC Directory Synchronizer. This is a very powerful program that allows you to choose exactly what you want to backup and where you want it to go. It is easily scheduled via the Windows task manager so you can create multiple jobs with appropriate frequencies for each job. I have used many similar pieces of software over the years and I’m much happier with this one than I was with any of the others…

• I have 2 D-Link DNS-323 Network Attached Storage (NAS) cases that each contain 2 Hard Drives. One of the drives in each NAS contains my entire photography library (including the recent work from my laptop), which I can access directly over the network from either computer using Adobe Lightroom or Windows Explorer. The other drive in each NAS contains all of my other data and documents. I do an automatic backup every week to copy everything from the primary NAS to the secondary NAS. This backup syncs any additions, deletions, or changes to any files on the primary. I do this weekly because that provides a nice buffer in case I make a mistake on either of the computers and it gets propagated to the primary NAS before I catch it. I then have a few days to recover any necessary files from the secondary NAS.
• This next part may sound crazy to some of you, but it is actually the most important part of my backup strategy… I use a portable USB drive that contains another copy of absolutely everything, and I store this drive off-site. This protects me in case of fire, flood, or any other major disaster that would impact my house, and which could potentially destroy all of the other backup copies at the same time. I only update this drive every few weeks, so there is always some exposure to losing my most recent files, but I have years worth of work stored on this drive that will always be safe.

  This drive can be stored at your workplace, at a friends house, in a safety deposit box, or even in your vehicle (as long as you don’t park it in the garage attached to your house!). The important part is that it must be an off-site backup, and therefore you have to get it out of your house. With this drive stored somewhere else, my absolute worst case is that I lose a few weeks worth of data.

  Note that I even go to the extreme of taking my secondary NAS off-site prior to bringing in my external drive!
  

Note that if you have a relatively small amount of data, a system like this could easily be created by using 2 inexpensive USB Hard Drives. These are readily available for under $100 if you need 1TB or less. You could use one drive as your primary backup and the other as the off-site backup. In fact this is exactly what I did for a long time before my storage needs outpaced the USB drives that I had. One benefit of using the NAS cases is that they are directly connected to my gigabit ethernet network, and I really like the performance and speed that the NAS is capable of.

The beauty of this system is that it can be easily upgraded by replacing the portable hard drives as your storage needs get bigger. These drives get bigger, faster, and cheaper all the time. Depending on how much storage space you need, you may never have to do this. Or you might need to start off with a multi-bay NAS right off the bat if you already have lots of data and you don’t have a good backup system.

So even if you only get one backup drive, and even if you only backup your data every once in awhile, I hope you are doing something. Do whatever works for you! Feel free to drop me a line if you need some help setting up your backup system!